Walled City Peshawar

Walled City of Peshawar

Posted by: Syeda Masooma on July 27, 2013 in History, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Leave a comment

             Peshawar is one of the Pakistan important metropolitan cities that is located in the Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa province. Peshawar is one of the old and historical cities of Asia. An old portion of this city is known as the walled city of Peshawar. Many of the walls were built here and during the British Raj, some Cantonments guarded by barbed wires were added by them. All the surroundings of the walled city were suitable and good enough for the common man to live there. Bala Hisar is the most certain mark of the citadel and is the highest place of the city even today.

General Avitabile, the Sikh Governor, during the Sikh period determined its boundaries and built the mud wall in the surroundings of the city. During the British Raj almost whole of the enclosure wall was built by pucca (hardened) brick. Many gates were also constructed in the old city of Peshawar and the walled city can be divided into three areas by these gates.
The highest ground centered around Gor Khatri lies on the East of the channels with Karimpura to its north-west and to its south-west Pipalmandi lies. The old Pipal trees described by the King Babur can be seen here at Pipalmandi. Two brad streets traverse this area besides the smaller lanes and by-lanes. One street starts from Chowk Yadgar and reaches to Gor Kahri. The street splits near to Krimpura and goes to Hashtnagri and Lahori Gates.

 The other area would start from Piplamandi and leads towards Ganj and Ekkatut gates. The channel’s joint flow near Chowk Yadgar separates this pre-Muslim city from Androon Shehar (inner city), the locality where Mosque Mohabbat Khan is located. An adjunct of this part is formed by the mohalla of Dhakki Nalbandi. With the shops of famous Peshawari lungies (turbans) and jewellary, this whole area is high ground.

The third area is defined between Kohati Darwaza chanel to Qissa Khwani channel that lies at Jahangirpura. This is the place where variety of felt caps are made. It is stated that is area is named after Mughal Emperor Jahangir who must have developed this area. A well in this area known as Sard Cha (well of cold water) is very famous in this area that is a Mughal era well and is still famous for its drinking water.
The main part of this area was “Namakmandi” that was famous for its grain shops and considered as grain hub of the area but today the grain shops have been transferred to the Pipalmandi. Streets from Namakmandi lead to Sar Asiya Gate, Sard Cha Gate, Saraki Gate, Bajauri GateDabgari Gate. As compared to other parts of the old city this part is on the lower level. To protect the city a wall was built around the city initially earthen but later strengthened by the bricks with sixteen gate during the Sikh regime.
The wall still exists around the city along with the gates. Some of the gates are removed and some are renovated. Names of the gates are: Kabuli Darwaza, Darwaza Anda Shehar also known as (Asamai), Kachehri Darwaza also famous as Tangsali, Reti Darwaza, Rampura Darwaza, Hashtnagri Darwaza, Lahori Darwaza, Ganj Darwaza, Darwaza Ekkatut, Kohati Darwaza, Saraki Darwaza, Sard Cha Darwaza, Sar Asiya or Tabiban Darwaza, Ramdas Darwaza, Dabgari Darwaza and Bajauri Darwaza.

 Importance of these gates no longer remain these days as with the development of new sense of security in the city. Wide streets are required as with the increase in the traffic and this increased traffic demands removal of these gates as well. The old walls have been taken into new houses and many houses and shops can be seen outside the walled city that were within the walled city. The residential areas in the old city were closed quarters and shops ranged in Katras (octagonal or square) and for safety purpose, Sarais were used to be there. Even today in Peshawar, such Mohallas and Katras can be seen.

Chowk Yadgar that gives access to Katra (octagonal shaped) Abresham (shop of silk merchant) opens behind the Kachehri Darwaza. Pipalmandi opens on its one side and other side leads to Katra Bazana. Today, open bazaars are most important. Kabuli Darwaza leades to the famous Qissa Khwani Bazar of the Peshawar. After the reconstruction of Kabuli Darwaza, Sir Herbert Edwards who was the second commissioner of Peshawar renamed it as Edwards Gate.
Open bazaars were initially built by the Avitabile. This bazaar leads to the Bazar Misgaran (shops of bronze ware). Further it leads to Batera Bazar where pet shops can be found and ahead to fruit market and finally to Chowk Yadgar.

The walls around the old city still stand though the construction of some modern houses has incorporated some part of these walls. The south of the city is the best preserved part that can be approached from Dabgari Gardens. In the recent years many of the old gates were rebuilt and some bearing the date on them.
Mughal Watch Towers are still standing outside the gates. Near the watch tower an old but dried up Mughal well can be seen. Many portions of the wall are now encumbered with the modern structures.
Some of the gates were rebuilt or renovated but some gates like Hashtnagri Darwaza are the gates that do not exist anymore. Many parts of the wall of the city are no longer traceable as well

some old photos of Peshawar

Old City Peshawar

The excavation site near Peshawar that has been uncovered by archeologists that suggests that the capital of Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa may be one of the oldest inhabited cities in Asia. SOURCE: EXPRESS

 Dean’s Hotel, Peshawar – 1946. Dean’s Hotel was constructed in 1913. It was built on 7.21 acres and was one of the most famous hotels in undivided India. Among its distinguished guests were Rudyard Kipling, Sir Winston Churchill, Quaid-e-Azam, and King Nadir Shah of Afghanistan (in 1929). The hotel was demolished a few years back and a plaza was constructed in its place.

 Historic Dean’s Hotel, Peshawar – 1963. Photo taken by Bill Spence.

 A Very Old Poster of Dean’s Hotel Peshawar. This undated poster was published in Bombay.

Another Photo of Dean’s Hotel- 1963. Foreigners (Jan Kiviniemi and Juhn Hartberg of United States Army Security Agency) bargaining with rickshaw driver. Photo by Bill Spence.rickshaw driver. Photo by Bill Spence.

Edwars College, Peshawar

Old city

Cunningham Clock Tower, Peshawar
Built in 1900 by the British, the name of the Cunningham Clock Tower refers to a British officer Sir George Cunnigham, who was governor of Peshawar during that time. The tower is commonly known as "Ghanta ghar" by the locals

Gor Khatri (Peshawar) – The ancient Hindu temple and place of pilgrimage

The celebrated Chinese pilgrim, Hiuen Tsang, who visited Gandhara in the early 7th Century CE, had paid glowing tribute to the city and the Great Stupa of Kanishka in his memoirs. He also talked about a site, which many historians argue, refers to Gor Khuttree where “Buddah’s giant bowl was kept”. Pakistani historian S.M. Jaffar identified it with the place of Hindu pilgrimage,  where the pilgrims performed the Sardukahr ritual i.e.shaving off heads

The best reason to visit Peshawar is the Old City. It is filled with shouts of vendors and mule drivers, choked with tongas, rickshaws, motorcycles, bullock carts, and a fascinating parade of different people.

Soon you reach the central square called chowk Yadgaar the traditional site of political rallies. The two routes from the old city meet here. Parking of cars can safely be done only at this place in the old cit

The Peshawar Museum is a Museum situated in the historic city of Peshawar, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan.The museum currently has 14,101 items in the museum which range from Gandhara sculptures, coins, manuscripts and copies of the Quran, inscriptions, weapons, dresses, jewellery, Kalash effigies, paintings of the Mughal era and later periods, household objects and local and Persian handicrafts.

 Bala Hisar is one of the most historic places of Peshawar. The words are of Persian origin meaning, “elevated or high fort”. According to Dr. Hussain Khan, the name was given by the Afghan King Taimur Shah Durrani (1773-1793). The Sikhs named it ‘Samir Garh’ in 1834 but the name did not become popular. The fort stands on a high mound in the northwestern corner of Peshawar City. Not long ago the fort used to be conspicuously away from the old city of Peshawar but now the construction of new buildings has covered space between the old city and the fort. However the fort being high, gives a commanding and panoramic view of Peshawar and the entire Peshawar valley. On a clear day, one can see the mountains encircling Peshawar valley and beyond. The area covered by the inner wall of the fort is about 10 acres and the outer wall is about 15 acres. The height of the fort is about 90 feet above ground level.

Origins & Early History:

It is surprising to note that no one is clear about the origin of the fort and many believe that the fort was built by the Mughals. This wrong concept about the origin of this fort has adopted because of the fact that only the Moghuls maintained diaries and mentioned about it. Babar, who was very meticulous, never said that he built Bala Hisar. In actual fact the fort is as old as the city itself. It will be seen that the main entrance of the fort directly faces the ancient Route to India [Peshawar­ Charsadda (Pushkalavati) route]. The same route is further extended to the historic city of Shahbaz Garhi (Po-lo-Sha or Varshapura) and onwards to Hund (Udabhandpura). This shows that fort must be at least about 2000 to 2500 years old and must have been the residence of the city chief of those days.

Renowned historian Dr. Ahmad Hasan Dani in his book “Peshawar - Historic City of Frontier” writes that when Hiuen Tsang visited Peshawar (630 AD), he speaks of a ‘royal residence’. He says that the Chinese words ‘Kung Shing’ used for it is significant and is explained as fortified or walled portion of the town in which the royal palace stood. Hiuen Tsang then makes a separate mention of the city which was not fortified. This shows that the royal residence formed the nucleus of a Citadel, which must have been further protected by a moat. Dr. Dani further says that channel of old Bara river surrounded a high spot which includes the Bala Hisar and Andar Shahr. The higher area could have been Citadel which is the present Bala Hisar.

Under the Ghaznavids:

Peshawar has always remained a strategic city and its capture was of great importance for the invaders. When Subuktagin captured Peshawar in 988 AD he garrisoned 10,000 horses there. Due to the concept of having a citadel dominating the city nearby, it is easy to infer that Subuktagin’s garrison must have been in the Bala Hisar Fort, by whichever name it existed then. Mahmud of Ghazni had defeated Hindu Rajas Jaipal and Anandpal in 100 AD and 1006 AD respectively near Peshawar. The Raja’s forces must have sought strength and protection from the citadel of Peshawar, which was also protected by the surrounding channel of Bara River. Seeing the importance of the city, Mohammad Ghauri also took Peshawar in 1179 AD.

Under the Moghuls:

Babar’s Visits to Bagram: The great founder Mughal Emperor, Zahir ud Din Babar has frequently mentioned about the fort of Bala Hisar in his memories. He talks of this dismounting near Bigrarn (or Begrarn, old Peshawar) and then going out for hunting. He had also visited the great ‘tree’ the Pipal Mandi area, which Hiuen Tsang had seen, having four sitting figures of Budha underneath. Babar left the fort in the charge of Shah Mir Hussain before his onward march into India.

Under Emperor Humayun: When Mughal Emperor Humayun was overthrown by the great Afghan King Sher Shah Suri, the Afghan destroyed Fort Bala Hisar also. While going to Kabul, Humayun however stayed at Peshawar and rebuilt Bala Hisar. Record of this event by Abul Fazal is quoted by Major Naimat in his article on Bala Hisar.

“After the overthrow of Emperor Humayun, by Sher Shah Suri, Afghans destroyed the fort of Begram (Peshawar). When Humayun was staying in the fort, he decided to rebuild it and garrison it and then proceed to Kabul. He wanted to use the fort for his conquest of India at a later stage. After returning from Persia he made use of the fort”.

Under the Durranis:

The Royal Residence: Ahmad Shah Durrani captured the fort from Moghuls and made it a residential palace.

Taimur Shah Durrani, the son of Ahmad Shah Durrani had made Peshawar his winter capital. While at Peshawar, his royal residence used to be in Bala Hisar Fort. However no buildings or structures of his days exist in the present fort. Taimur Shah kept a bodyguard of “Gholami Shahis” consisting of Persians and Tajiks for protection. In 1779, when a Khalil Chief Faizullah Khan forced his entry into Bala Hisar, the King was saved by the same bodyguards.

Under the Sikhs:

After the death of Taimur Shah Durrani in 1793, AD Shah Zaman became the King. However the Durrani rule weakened and the Sikhs rose to power in the Punjab. After the battle of Nowshera, the Sikhs captured Peshawar including Bala Hisar in 1834. At the time the fort was in a bad shape. Some accounts however indicate that the Sikhs first destroyed Bala Hisar but later realized its importance for protection and had to rebuild it. Either Hari Singh Nalwa or Sardar Khurruck Singh are said to have rebuilt the fort. However according to Raverty, Sher Singh, on the orders of his father Ranjeet Singh, erected the fort with un-burnt bricks. Sardar Tej Singh and General Evitable (1838-42) also stayed in Bala Hisar as Governors. While entering the main courtyard of the fort, a Sikh period inscription in marble can be seen on an arch gate. This is the only mark or inscription available today in Bala Hisar.

Under the British:

After the downfall of the Sikhs, Punjab was annexed by the British in 1849 and naturally Peshawar valley also became part of British India. At that time Bala Hisar had mud walls and was not very strong. The British replaced the whole structure with bricks and the present shape was given to Bala Hisar. Almost all the barracks that exist today were made by the British.

The British used to keep the troops in Bala Hisar till the cantonment was laid out. When the Afridi tribesmen launched an attack on the city in 1930, they fired guns from Bala Hisar Fort to stop Tribes men from entering the city.

Present:

A small museum has also been opened inside the fort which displays the weapons, dresses and other historical photographs etc related to the Frontier Corps. However, for entry to the fort, prior permission must be obtained.